WordHCMC – Saigon’s Leading Expat Magazine. Published on Saturday, 09 January 2010, 11:59 | Written by Freddie Quick
Pedaling the Mekong Delta with Van the Man By Freddie Quick, 2009
The reports I’d heard from friends about their Mekong Delta adventures were, frankly, uninspiring. Most had endured whirlwind tours featuring lackluster boat rides, factory visits, and minimal fresh air. So when the opportunity arose to experience the Delta differently—on two wheels, with cycling enthusiasts John and Van—I jumped at it.
John, an Australian expat, and Van, a native of the Delta with an encyclopedic knowledge of its backroads, are the founders of Vietnam Backroads Bicycle Tours. They promised something off the beaten track. “We’re an alternative trip to the Mekong,” John explained as we prepared to depart. “The area is perfect for riding, and we want cyclists to see its real side.” Van added, “Most tours follow the same paths. With my knowledge of the region, we can help travelers avoid the crowds and really appreciate the scenery.”
The Great Escape
We met at 7 a.m. on the steps of the Saigon Opera House and headed out in a minivan. The excitement was palpable as we escaped the city’s chaos. After a quick pho bò stop, I learned more about my guides. John was the driving force, and Van—the local expert—was our human GPS, with hand-drawn maps and years of tour experience.
Soon we left the van, oiled the gears, and saddled up. I swapped my shorts for a Lycra top, but skipped the padded spandex shorts—a decision I’d regret. We cycled off the highway and onto a scenic riverside path: a narrow concrete vein winding through lush paddy fields, with butterflies flitting about and fruit trees lining the route.
The Ultimate Ride
Within minutes, I realized the bicycle is the ideal way to experience the Delta. It’s fast enough to explore deeply, yet quiet enough not to disturb the peace. We stopped at Xeo Quyt, a former army base, where we crossed a rickety bridge and boarded rafts to glide through dense forest. The serenity was mesmerizing.
In Sa Dec, a colonial-era town immortalized in Marguerite Duras’s The Lover, we stopped for lunch at her childhood home. Still tourist-free, the town felt frozen in time. That evening, we arrived in Can Tho for an overnight stay, resting up for a sunrise visit to the famed Cai Rang floating market.
Water World
At dawn, we boarded a boat to navigate the bustling floating market. Locals were already brushing teeth, washing hair, and boiling breakfast by the riverside. Van fetched us cà phê sữa đá as he pointed out the clever marketing strategy: sellers tied their produce to tall bamboo poles so buyers could spot offerings from afar.
Painted eyes, incense, and flower garlands adorned many boats, lending an almost mythical charm to the scene. With golden sunlight on the water and no tour buses in sight, it felt like a dream.
Roads Less Pedaled
After breakfast, we returned to our bikes. Van led us onto one of his secret backroads. Along the way, we passed women drying hyacinth for furniture and a man fishing with an electrified stick. A visit to a rural school became a highlight: children laughed as we circled their playground, and I discovered a library-in-a-tree—books stuffed in bottles hanging from branches.
Racing ahead, I tried to keep pace with John and crashed into a basket holding a fighting cock. Both the bird and I were fine, though my ego was bruised.
Back to Reality
As we neared the end of our ride, a quiet sadness crept in. I didn’t want to leave. Van and I pedaled slowly past endless paddies, exchanging stories as the sun set over the Delta.
Back in Saigon, I realized how wrong I’d been to dismiss a Mekong tour. It’s not the destination—it’s how you go. With Vietnam Backroads, I experienced the Delta as it should be: through hidden trails, genuine encounters, and the simple joy of riding.
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In 2009, while most tour operators stuck to well-trodden routes, Van—the man behind the handlebars—was on a mission. He set out on solo scouting trips from Ho Chi Minh City to Hue, determined to uncover quiet backroads and hidden trails ideal for bicycle tours. Armed with little more than a hand-drawn map, an unshakable sense of direction, and a deep passion for his homeland, Van spent weeks navigating the countryside—crossing rivers by ferry, chatting with villagers, and pedaling remote paths few had ever considered for tourism. These early explorations laid the foundation for what would become Vietnam Backroads Bicycle Tours, offering travelers an authentic, crowd-free way to experience Vietnam’s central and southern regions—on two wheels.
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